I have too many things to say. I don't know where to start. For lack of a better starting place, some notes on the food situation in Burkina:
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The
staple food is called to (a.k.a. sagbo in Mooré). It is a whitish paste made
out of corn or millet flour and water, kind of similar to polenta but without
the butter and cheese, or, the things that make polenta exciting. They cook it
in a big pot and then let it cool until solid, and then eat it with sauce. My
family usually serves it with 2 sauces that you mix together in your bowl
before adding the to. One of them is a reddish oily fish sauce, and the other
one they call gumbo. There’s something slimy in it, presumably okra, and they
also add in some kind of leaves, maybe baobab leaves? A lot of other trainees
hate to. I kind of like it.
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Another
standard food is benga, which is a dish of black-eyed peas, served plain on a
plate by itself as a meal. They usually give you palm oil to pour over (for
flavor?) or spicy pepper flakes. It’s palatable with the pepper flakes.
Sometimes it comes mixed with rice when it’s fancy, or with caramelized onions
on top. Whew.
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Other
staples: riz sauce and riz gras. Riz means rice. Riz sauce is usually a safe
bet. The sauce has different things in it depending on where you go, but it’s
usually a neutral brown color, with different combinations of stewed vegetables
and meat. They also eat a lot of spaghetti and macaroni with oily tomato sauce.
Also couscous. Also plain flavorless soft white bread in the form of rolls or
baguettes, which they fold into thirds and hand to you in a black plastic bag.
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Lest
it sound like there is nothing but starches here, which is only 95% true, there
are also cucumbers that you can sometimes get in a salad with a garlicky aioli
sauce that is pretty good, and also, separately, all kinds of mystery meat (I
don’t ask) in a rich brown sauce that they call soup, but which is too rich and
salty to eat by itself. You can also get peanut butter at the market, which
they scoop out of huge bowls into little plastic baggies. I think we Americans
are the only ones who eat it on sandwiches; the Burkinabè sometimes use it in
sauces. Oh, also the yogurt is pretty great. It is plain and lightly sweetened,
and sometimes they serve it with millet mixed in. The mangoes and bananas are
also excellent. The cheapest mangoes are as little as 5 cents each, and the
bananas are a little more. I am slightly allergic to mangoes.
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My
host family gives me hot water and sugar cubes and powdered milk at breakfast.
It took me awhile to figure out what I was supposed to do with them. Did they
stop at that point before buying me coffee granules? It seems to be the
case. (People drink a lot of powdered Nescafe here.) They looked at me weirdly
when I brought out tea bags. They looked at me more weirdly for not adding
sugar to my tea. Repeated statements of “I don’t add sugar to my tea” led to
blank stares, as did my attempts to explain why I don’t eat the plain white
bread with mayonnaise on it. Oh well.
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